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Abstract(s)
Numa sociedade em constante mudança, observamos alterações em valores e conceitos tão presentes na nossa vida e que nunca pensámos ver alterados. Gerações mais jovens, como a Geração Z, estão, agora, a questionar conceitos tão estabelecidos e abertamente aceites como a existência ou não de um género binário.
Crescemos com ideia pré-definidas de que o cor-de-rosa é para meninas, o azul para meninos. Os cheiros limpos e florais para as mulheres. Os aromas almiscarados, com notas de amadeiradas e picantes para os homens. As mulheres devem pintar o cabelo assim que o primeiro branco se torna reconhecível. Os homens envelhecem “como o vinho do Porto”.
As alterações ao conceito de género estão a impactar, entre outras áreas como a moda ou a maquilhagem, o cuidado pessoal e o cuidado de pele. As marcas mais recentes procuram adoptar uma comunicação mais neutra e que quebre com a ideia de que apenas as mulheres cuidam da sua pele. Encontramos hoje marcas que adotam uma comunicação cujo público-alvo são todos os consumidores que procurem um cuidado de pele, independentemente do seu género.
O presente trabalho foca-se no estudo, primeiramente, do que nos levou até aqui. Das questões de género, teoria de género ao feminismo, procuramos perceber como a história construiu o caminho sobre o qual estamos a caminhar. Olhamos para a publicidade e como historicamente o homem e a mulher foram representados. Por fim, estudamos a geração que está no centro de todo este tumulto, a Gen Z. Quem são, porque querem mudar o mundo e porque é que as marcas estão a seguir os seus passos. Para tal olhamos para uma marca em especial The Ordinary.
Sobre a marca, que ocupa papel de estudo de caso nesta investigação, observamos a sua história e missão. Analisamos ainda três campanhas que provam uma adoção de uma comunicação de género mais neutra e fluída, ao encontro das imposições da geração Z. De forma a aprofundar o nosso conhecimento sobre todas as questões mencionadas, realizamos quatro entrevistas, semi-estruturadas, quatro indivíduos de diferentes idades e géneros. Tais entrevistas são um auxílio à examinação de como a ideia de género não-binário, gender-fluid, se encontra ou não presente na sociedade portuguesa.
Num tema ainda pouco explorado no contexto português, o estudo sobre o abandono das representações tradicionais de género por parte de marcas de cuidado de pele assume-se de importância extrema, quer pela pertinência do tema na nossa sociedade, quer pelas mudanças a que assistimos constantemente, diariamente. Desta forma, esta investigação contribui para o conhecimento da área e oferece insights valiosos para marcas e marketing das áreas mencionadas.
ABSTRACT: In a constantly changing society, we observe alterations in values and concepts that are so present in our lives and that we never thought we would see altered. Younger generations, such as Generation Z, are now questioning concepts that have been so established and openly accepted, such as the existence or non-existence of a binary gender. We grew up with preconceived ideas that pink is for girls, blue is for boys. Clean and floral scents are for women. Musky aromas, with woody and spicy notes, are for men. Women should dye their hair as soon as the first gray hair becomes noticeable. Men age "like fine wine." Changes in the concept of gender are impacting areas such as fashion, makeup, personal care, and skincare. Newer brands aim to adopt a more neutral communication that breaks the idea that only women take care of their skin. Today, we find brands that adopt a communication strategy targeting all consumers seeking skincare, regardless of their gender. This work focuses on studying, firstly, what has led us to this point. From gender issues, gender theory to feminism, we seek to understand how history built the path on which we are now walking. We look at advertising and how historically men and women have been represented. Finally, we study the generation at the center of all this upheaval, Generation Z. Who they are, why they want to change the world, and why brands are following in their footsteps. To do so, we focus on one brand, The Ordinary. Regarding the brand, which serves as a case study in this research, we examine its history and mission. We also analyze three campaigns that demonstrate the adoption of a more neutral and fluid gender communication, aligning with the demands of Generation Z. To deepen our understanding of all the mentioned issues, we conducted four semi-structured interviews with individuals of different ages and genders. These interviews assist in examining how the idea of non-binary, gender-fluid identity is or is not present in Portuguese society. In a topic still underexplored in the Portuguese context, the study of the abandonment of traditional gender representations by skincare brands is of extreme importance, both due to the relevance of the topic in our society and the constant, daily changes we witness. Thus, this research contributes to the knowledge in the field and offers valuable insights for brands and marketing in the mentioned areas.
ABSTRACT: In a constantly changing society, we observe alterations in values and concepts that are so present in our lives and that we never thought we would see altered. Younger generations, such as Generation Z, are now questioning concepts that have been so established and openly accepted, such as the existence or non-existence of a binary gender. We grew up with preconceived ideas that pink is for girls, blue is for boys. Clean and floral scents are for women. Musky aromas, with woody and spicy notes, are for men. Women should dye their hair as soon as the first gray hair becomes noticeable. Men age "like fine wine." Changes in the concept of gender are impacting areas such as fashion, makeup, personal care, and skincare. Newer brands aim to adopt a more neutral communication that breaks the idea that only women take care of their skin. Today, we find brands that adopt a communication strategy targeting all consumers seeking skincare, regardless of their gender. This work focuses on studying, firstly, what has led us to this point. From gender issues, gender theory to feminism, we seek to understand how history built the path on which we are now walking. We look at advertising and how historically men and women have been represented. Finally, we study the generation at the center of all this upheaval, Generation Z. Who they are, why they want to change the world, and why brands are following in their footsteps. To do so, we focus on one brand, The Ordinary. Regarding the brand, which serves as a case study in this research, we examine its history and mission. We also analyze three campaigns that demonstrate the adoption of a more neutral and fluid gender communication, aligning with the demands of Generation Z. To deepen our understanding of all the mentioned issues, we conducted four semi-structured interviews with individuals of different ages and genders. These interviews assist in examining how the idea of non-binary, gender-fluid identity is or is not present in Portuguese society. In a topic still underexplored in the Portuguese context, the study of the abandonment of traditional gender representations by skincare brands is of extreme importance, both due to the relevance of the topic in our society and the constant, daily changes we witness. Thus, this research contributes to the knowledge in the field and offers valuable insights for brands and marketing in the mentioned areas.
Description
Dissertação de mestrado apresentada à Escola Superior de Comunicação Social como parte dos requisitos para obtenção de grau de mestre em Publicidade e Marketing.
Keywords
Género Identidade de género Geração Z Publicidade Comunicação Cuidado de pele Skincare Gender Gender identity Generation Z Advertising Communication
Citation
Oliveira, M.G. (2024). O abandono das representações tradicionais de género binário na comunicação de marcas de cuidado de pele: O caso The Ordinary [Dissertação de mestrado, Escola Superior de Comunicação Social]. Repositório Científico do Instituto Politécnico de Lisboa. http://hdl.handle.net/10400.21/21539
Publisher
Instituto Politécnico de Lisboa, Escola Superior de Comunicação Social